Shirts

What makes it a shirt

A shirt is cut from woven cloth, not knitted, which is the whole difference from a t-shirt. Woven fabric barely stretches, so a shirt holds a collar, a buttoned placket and a pressed edge, and it takes structure from its pattern pieces: a yoke across the shoulders, set-in sleeves and cuffs.

The collar sets the register. A button-down or spread collar reads smart, a camp collar lies open and flat for summer, and a band collar drops the points altogether. Overshirts cut the same shape from heavier twill, flannel or corduroy and get worn like a light jacket.

Fabric decides the season

Poplin is crisp and smooth, oxford cloth has a soft basket texture, linen breathes and creases, and flannel is brushed for warmth. The same pattern in two of these fabrics makes two different shirts, which is why designers here often release one cut in several cloths.

Designing your own shirt

Start from a base shirt and choose the collar, fabric, colour and buttons, then add a print, an embroidered mark or contrast panels. It is produced to order like everything on Sparkit, so you are not left with racks of sizes nobody asked for.